Jag fortsätter sommaren här i Stockholm. Och en sak som slagit mig är alla turister som kommer till stan. Det fullkomligt kryllar av dem. De kommer med flyg, båtar och bussar från Ryssland, Japan, Kina, Tyskland, USA, Kanada, Norge, Finland, Danmark och Italien. Skitbra! Ännu fler borde komma. Men häromkvällen när jag satt på hotell Lydmars uteservering och snodde åt mig lite sällsynt eftermiddagssol funderade jag på vad alla dessa besökare gör om dagarna. Var shoppar de? Var äter de? Var fikar de? Kultur och historia träffar de nog rätt på. Skansen, Vasamuseet, Gamla Stan, Slottet, Djurgården och så vidare. Svårt att göra fel där. Men allt det andra. Hittar stans besökare till något annat än plankstek fläsknoisette på Drottninggatan?

Jag hoppas det.

Men det kan nog inte vara så lätt.

Det jag märkt nu när vi varit hemma här under juli är att mycket av det som är bra stänger för sommaren. Flera restauranger som jag skulle tipsat besökande vänner om har semesterstängt. Kommendören, Elverket, Rolfs Kök, Daphnes bara för att nämna några. Det är synd även om jag förstår dem. De internationella guider som finns är inte helt uppdaterade och nya onlinetjänster för dåliga. I alla fall i mina ögon. De ger helt enkelt inte den bild av Stockholm som jag skulle vilja.

Men man ska inte hålla på och gnälla. Det är trist. Så därför tar jag tag i detta själv med min egen lilla sammanfattade Stockholmsguide. Den blir på engelska då Industribolaget faktiskt har 10 % internationella besökare varje månad. Allt för att vara så användarvänlig som möjligt.

So here it is. The IB English Stockholm Summer Guide 2015.

Shopping streets

Jakobsbergsgatan: Biblioteksgatan might be the most famous and stylish of shopping streets but the smaller sides streets have a lot to offer. Take Jakobsbergsgatan for example. Here you will find nice little shops from Swedish designers Our Legacy and Tiger of Sweden. Sandqvist bags and leather accessories have opened up shop next to Sempre, a very nice and friendly espresso bar. A perfect stop to unload your bags, have a Cortado and chat with the baristas before you walk next door to Nudie Jeans Repair Shop. Further down the road, crossing Biblioteksgatan, you will find the GANT flag ship store. Nearby on the side streets closer to Norrmalmstorg you will find other Swedish brands like Filippa K, Peak Performance, H&M Man, Acne and Solo. During the summer months most brands offer great sales and discounts for a good bargain. Stock up on button-down shirts, shorts and T-shirts. The entire neighborhood, called Biblioteksstan, between Östermalmstorg and Norrmalmstorg accounts for great shopping from most Swedish brands well worth to spend a couple of hours.

Biblioteksgatan/Jakobsbergsgatan/Norrmlamstorg (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Humlegårdsgatan/Sturegatan: Follow Sturegatan from Stureplan and you will find a side street in transformation. Humlegårdsgatan used to offer nothing other than a shortcut up to Östermalmstorg. But now, thanks to crafty landlords and restaurateurs, it has both good food and shopping. If the weather permits you can start with a quick lunch at El Taco Truck in the corner of Humlegårdsgatan and Sturegatan. After a few carnitas and a Sol beer cross the street to find GANT Rugger and Eton Shirts. Then follow Humlegårdsgatan towards Östermalmstorg to stop by at Granit for some Swedish interior design. They got everything from nice canvas bags to candles and cutlery. Filippa K has as store nearby with a nice suit selection. And recently Swedish Baron bags opened up their first store here. Then pop in to Taverna Brillo for a quick espresso and a cinnamon bun before you go shoe shopping at Skoaktiebolaget. These guys know their shoes and it is beautiful little shop next to Östermalmstorg which has a great market filled with fresh meat, fish, cheese, fruit and vegetables.

Humlegårdsgatan/Sturegatan (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Krukmakargatan: This is one ugly street but it has some great hidden treasures if you make your way over to this part of Södermalm. Nitty Gritty offers a great selection of men’s fashion and an in store barber shop to trim your beard. They have both national and international brands from Gitman Vintage to APC and Universal Works. Our Legacy has a store close by next to new Swedish designers Uniforms for the Dedicated. Here you will also find Papercut which is one of the best newsstands in the city. If you get hungry drop in to Delicatessen. A cute little bistro located inside an old fire station. Around the corner from Krukmakargatan you will find Herr Judith which is a great place to do some vintage shopping. They also have a shop specializing in interior design further down the street (Hornsgatan towards Slussen) If you are in a need for a coffee, Mellqvist Kaffe offers friendly service and great espressos. Just around the corner from the coffee shop you will find the newly opened organic supermarket Paradiset offering fruits and greens as well ice cream and flat bread pizza to your everyday essentials presented with interior design that will remind you of Whole Foods or Trader Joe´s.

Krukmakargatan/Hornsgatan (Metro Mariatorget)

Newsstands and book shops

Papercut: A great independent newsstand/book shop offering a nicely curated selection of international magazines from Lucky Peach, Rum & Cow to Apartamento and Swedish Offside and Filter. The staff is very helpful and there are two large tables with fun and rare coffee table books that makes the space look like a newsstand/book shop should do. Something that is rare in itself in Stockholm these days.

Krukmakargatan 24 (Metro Mariatorget)

Press Stop: Located next to Wayne’s Coffee and opposite of Starbucks on Götgatan is this little newsstand that has been around for years. You will find most Swedish and international monthly magazines about food, fashion, design and business.

Götgatan 31 (Metro Slussen)

Hedengrens: One of the last independent book shops left in Stockholm. The shop, which consists of two floors, is in a prime location in the middle of Stureplan. Dark wooden shelves and arm chairs to ponder in makes this a must visit. Hedengrens also has one of the best selection of English books in the city. After you have bought the latest Dennis Lehane paperback walk next door to Sturehof. A classic bar and restaurant that never goes out of style. Ask the bartender for a nice Swedish lager and order a Toast Skagen (shrimps, mayo and fresh dill on toast) while you read a few chapters of your new book.

Stureplan 4 (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Bars

Corner Club: Your best bet for a quality cocktail in Gamla Stan. During the summer they move in to the adjoining wine bar Gaston. This space is not as nice but the drinks are still the best. Friendly staff that always make you feel welcome. After a few Sazeracs when you get hungry you can order food from gastro pub The Flying Elk (also owned by famous chef Björn Frantzen). Try the burger. A bit pricy but amazing.

Lilla Nygatan 16, (Metro Gamla Stan)

Bar Central: If you likebeer and schnitzel this is the place to be. They have two locations. One near the very popular Nytorget on Södermalm and one close to Stureplan on Birger Jarlsgatan in the center of town. Ask the staff to tell you about the various ways to pour a Pilsner Urquell, sample some great cold cuts and pickles before you eat the best schnitzel in town. Both locations are tastefully decorated, using wood, green colors and copper for details.

Skånegatan 83 (Nytorget bus nr 2), Birger Jarlsgatan 41 (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Tjoget: Located in the very popular neighborhood Hornstull, somewhat of a hipster mecca, lies Tjoget. A great cocktail bar with an adjoining bistro named Linje 10. Take the Metro to Hornstull for drinks and dinner. The bar has a great atmosphere, and even though it is fairly new, it feels like it has been around for ages. They do a mean Negroni and do not miss to order Greek Pita with fries and yoghurt. Hornstull gets fairly busy at night, with several bars around and the nightclub Strand down by the water front, so this is a great place to start or end an evening.

Hornsbruksgatan 24 (Metro Skanstull)

Tweed/Sanchez: One of the bestin the city. During the summertime they change their name to Sanches an move out in courtyard together with the restaurant Svinet (The Pig). Charcoal grilled meat and rum cocktail makes for a perfect evening and one of the best places in Gamla Stan (Old Town).

Lilla Nygatan 5 (Metro Gamla Stan) Entrance through Victory Hotel

Coffee

We Swedes love coffee. And we drink loads of it. Starbucks has just recently opened up their first four coffee shops in the city due to tough competition from existing coffee chains like Espresso House and Wayne’s Coffee. But Stockholm has so much more to offer when it comes to great coffee. So ditch the chain brands and visit some local shops instead.

Sempre: Run by two friendly and chatty Italians this is a great place to start your day with a cappuccino and a ham & cheese croissant or stop by for a quick espresso in the midst of all your shopping at Biblioteksgatan and around Norrmalmstorg.

Jakobsbergsgatan 5 (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Mellqvist: Very popular among locals that come for friendly service, tasty paninis, cardamom buns and great coffee. There are two shops, one in Vasastan and one on Södermalm. Grab a brewed coffee and a cardamom or cinnamon bun, take a seat in the corner you’re your morning magazine and watch the baristas hard at work chatting with all the regulars.

Rörstrandsgatan 4 (Metro St Eriksplan) and Hornsgatan 78 (Metro Mariatorget)

Kaffeverket: This coffee shop is located in an old garage in an alley next to a large dark stone stair case which makes is very easy to miss. But it is worth going there. They do great soup and sandwiches as well as coffee and a nice selection of sweets. The coffee beans come from Stockholm Roast so ask the barista for their daily blend. On a rainy day this is a great hide out to spend an hour or two.

Kafé Esaias: Award winning coffee shop located at the end of the otherwise very busy tourist street Drottninggatan. Their walls are loaded with diplomas but it has not affected the atmosphere here which is very welcoming. Order a cortado and grab a chair outside for some afternoon people watching.

Drottninggatan 102 (Metro Rådmansgatan)

Restaurants

Sturehof/Riche/Taverna Brillo: Three safe bets. Both Riche and Sturehof are classical establishment that have been around for ages. Tastefully decorated by Swedish designer Jonas Bohlin, who is known to use long lasting materials like marble and brass, makes these two restaurant feel welcoming all year around. Menus filled with all the Swedish classics like Toast Skagen, meatballs and herring to European bistro dishes like Steak Tartar and Moule Frites. Sister restaurant Taverna Brillo has a more Italian style menu with great pizza and pasta. This place is huge which makes it fairly easy to get a table. Also a nice hang out for late night drinks. All three restaurants are located near Stureplan which is kind of the epicenter for food and nightlife in Stockholm. I would stay away from most clubs around here as they have ridiculous cover charges and grumpy bouncers.  

Stureplan (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Norrtullsgatan 24 (Metro Odenplan)

The Flying Elk: Chef Björn Frantzén has become a worldwide superstar with his two star restaurant Frantzén in Gamla Stan (Old Town). If you do not want to wait for months for a table and you are not in the mood to spend a months pay on food there is still a chance for you to taste his food. Located only 50 meters from the Frantzén restaurant lies his gastro pub The Flying Elk. Enjoy updated classic pub grub in this nice corner space complete with a cocktail bar (Corner Club) and a wine bar (Gaston).

Mälartorget 15 (Metro Gamla Stan)

 Barrels Burger & Beers/Phils Burger/Prime Burger/Flippin’ Burgers

There has been an explosion on the burger scene in Stockholm the last couple of years. It all started with Flippin’ Burgers and then it escalated. Many will say that Flippin’ still is the best but to be honest now there really is a handful of really good burger joints that puts love and care in everything from freshly baked buns to high quality beef and luxury milkshakes. Here are four good bets to visit for a hardy lunch.

Barrels Burger & Beers, Stora Nygatan 20 (Metro Gamla Stan)
Phils Burger, Fleminggatan 49 (Metro Fridhemsplan)
Prime Burger, Birger Jarlsgatan 101 (Metro Tekniska Högskolan)
Flippin’ Burgers, Observatoriegatan 8 (Metro Odenplan)

Snacks

If you are on a tighter budget, or want something on the go, or a smaller meal perfect for a bench in the park then these places are perfect for you.

La Neta: Stockholm’s first and best taqueria. You will get a great and filling lunch for under 10 Euros including a soda. Hard to beat in central Stockholm. Ask for the Pirata (large beef taco) and one Campechana (large pork taco) to go and find a spot down by the water.

Barnhusgatan 2 (Metro T-Centralen) & Östgötagatan 12B (Metro Slussen)

Snack Bar: Located inside the very popular food court K25, this is a french kebab stand that racks up huge lines during lunch time. Food is prepared by the people behind the celebrated French restaurant Chez Betty (Roslagsgatan 43) and they only have two items on the menu. There is a veal kebab served in a gallette (French style pancake) with harissa, onions, tomatoes and a white sauce. Very tasty! And then there is the monster sandwich “Baguette Americain” which is beef, caramelized onions and gruyere cheese with fries inside a baguette. The best hangover cure known to man.

Kungsgatan 25 (Metro Hötorget)

Östermalms Korvspecialist: A hot dog, or ”korv med bröd” as we say in Sweden, is a classic and no one does it better than the guys over at Östermalms Korvspecialist on Nybrogatan 57. A small hot dog stand that has been around since 1991 on this same address. They serve quality hot dogs from all over the world. Ask them for a traditional recommendation and do not miss to order a “Pucko” as your beverage of choice. It is a bottled chocolate milk that goes perfect together with hot dogs. Trust me!

Nybrogatan 57 (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Activities

Outdoor museum: Stockholm is filled with great museums and most will be listed in your guidebooks and already advertised in your inflight magazines. So I will say this, if you want to get a basic understanding about traditional Swedish culture, architecture and wildlife then Skansen is your place. It is a lovely outdoor museum/zoo located on the island of Djurgården in the center of Stockholm. Very popular among visiting Swedish families and international tourists. I live here and I still go at least once a year for the views of the city and to watch the brown bears and wolves. Djurgården in itself is a must see. Both a protected park and entertainment center with a Tivoli (Gröna Lund) and several museums like Vasamuseet, Spritmuseum, The Abba Museum and Nordiska Museet. You can easily spend an entire weekend here just visiting museums. But if you are only here for a weekend then Skansen will do great for a hours.

Rent a bike: There a several companies that rent bikes to take you around the city. City Bikes are one of the most convenient as they have bike stands placed at several locations around the city for you to pick up and drop off your bike. My suggestion is that you by some “fika”, the Swedish word for coffee and sweets or sandwiches, and rent a bike to go around the island of Djurgården. Stop by Fabrique on Nybrogatan 6, a sour dough bakery with several shops around the city, and buy a bag of cinnamon and cardamom buns, liver pate sandwiches with cornichons and coffee to go. Ask them to bag it so that you can bring it with you on your bike. Then walk down Nybrogatan towards the waterfront to pick up your bikes. Bike along Strandvägen to get a good view of the ferries departing to the archipelago. Continue to follow the water and pass the bridge on your right at the end of the street. There is a bike path that will take you along a small channel and around Djurgården. Pick a spot in this huge park to watch the ferries and sail boats crusing in and out of the bay. On your way back stop by Spritmuseum (The museum of alcohol!!!). Right now they have an exhibition on craft beers with a great bar outside. Sample a few local craft beers before going back in to the city.

Watch a soccer game: Ice hockey and soccer are Sweden’s two major sports. The Swedish major soccer league plays from April to October with a short break during June. There are three teams from Stockholm playing in the first division. Hammarby and Djurgården play their home games at Tele2 Arena (capacity 30 000) on Södermalm and AIK, which is my team, plays at Friends Arena (capacity 50 000) in Solna. A ticket is between 10-30 Euros and even though the quality of the players are nothing compared to the Premier Leauge or Bundesliga the Swedish fans usually put on a great show. Ask your concierge to help you with tickets, buy a light beer (nothing stronger is allowed for sale inside the arena) and a hot dog at the arena kiosks before settling in and listen to the fans singing to support their teams.  

Friends Arena (Train station Solna Station)

Tele2 Arena (Metro Globen or Gullmarsplan)

Quality bar hopping in Gamla Stan: The cocktail bar scene has developed from bad to amazing in the last couple of years. And surprisingly the real surge took place in Gamla Stan otherwise only known for crowded tourist streets selling plastic Viking helmets and cheap candy. But today Gamla Stan is the place to be if you like a good cocktail. Start your evening at Sanchez (Lilla Nygatan 5) then head down the street to Corner Club (Lilla Nygatan 16) before you walk up to Stortorget where you will find the mixologists at Pharmarium. Kornhamnstorg No 53 is a friendly corner bistro that also does great drinks. This is a good place to get some flat bread pizza to make you through the rest of the night.

Beer drinking in Södermalm: Start your evening to get some late afternoon sun in the Mosebacke biergarten (Mosebacketorg 3) This is a huge outside bar with spectacular views over Gamla Stan and Djurgården. This place has a friendly atmosphere, sometimes they have live music on the stage and several kiosks where you can buy beer in plastic cups. When you are tired of drinking from plastic cups then walk down the street to Omnipollos Hatt (Hökensgata 3). The famous Swedish phantom brewers recently opened this craft beer pub and pizza place. Grab dinner here before you walk in the direction on Nytorget where you will find several bars and restaurants. Nytorget Urban Deli is always packed with people. It is a combined restaurant, bar, bakery and supermarket that actually helped transform this entire neighborhood to the better. Nytorget 6 lies next door and is both a great restaurant (all main course meals are priced under 20 Euros) and a nice bar. Cross the park to Bar Central if you fancy more central European style cooking and beer before you end your night at Trädgården. This is an enormous outdoor club, restaurant and biergarten located below the Skanstull bridge. There is usually a line and an entrance fee (10 Euros) but if the weather is nice this is a great place to dance and have a good time.

Stay

Story Hotel: A nice design hotel located on a quite side street to Birger Jarlsgatan and Stureplan in the center of the city. The rooms are small but tastefully decorated with modern furnitures. There is a great bar to start your night out and in the summer the back patio is open for dinner and drinks.

Riddargatan 6 (Metro Östermalmstorg)

Hotel Rival: This hotel, opened in 2003 and owned by former ABBA-member Benny Andersson, is located at cosy Mariatorget on Södermalm. The hotel has a great stage that functions as a venue for stand-up comedians, concerts and plays throughout the year.

Mariatorget 3 (Metro Mariatorget)

Lydmar Hotel: Smaller than its’ famous neighbor Grand Hotel, and tiny bit cheaper per night, is Lydmar Hotel. The location is amazing, overlooking Gamla Stan and The Royal Castle. The hotel is well thought through and decorated with lots of art with no expenses saved. Even the guest toilets next to the bar are equipped with luxurious soaps and towels. The hotel has a nice terrace for drinks, a restaurants that feels like you are dining in a very rich friend’s living room and also an outside bar with the best afternoon sun in the city.

Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2 (Metro Kungsträdgården)